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Hardy, monoecious, evergreen trees, Spruces are native to the northern hemisphere,
growing in cool, forested regions. Undemanding and easy to care for given
the correct care, Spruce make excellent bonsai specimens. Individual needle
foliage (unlike pines which grow in bundles), ranging from bright to
medium green, blue-green to golden, grow around each stem. Bark grows
scaly and ridged with age, lending a rough and handsome air. The roots
natural grow close to the surface in a widespreading habit, making good
nebari easy to achieve. The shallow roots also make them ideal for pot
culture, as well as rock and slab plantings. Spruce can grow hanging cones
when mature.
Hardiness: Zone 2 or 3 in landscape. Protect roots from deep freezes, as they are shallow rooted. Spruce need
periods of cold weather to survive, and will die is successive winters are above 68 F. Protect from drying winds.
Light: Full sun in landscape, in bonsai pots protect roots from over heating by providing partial shade, especially in
the midday heat. Foliage will reduce from too much lack of light in the growing season. Can tolerate deep shade in
the winter, but still need light (do not shelter in a garage with no windows for example).
Soil: Neutral to acidic, moist but well draining.
Watering: Can be quiet thirsty in the growing season, so check daily, more frequently if it is particularly hot a dry.
Forest species are slightly drought tolerant, but don't prefer it. Dwarf species are less drought tolerant and enjoy
slightly wetter roots.
Fertilizer: Balanced feed every two weeks from spring until later summer. Can use an acidic fertilizer once or twice
a month in place of regular fertilizer.
Pests and Diseases: Spruce gall aphids, mites, bagworms, sawflies. Needle cast, canker, rust. Especially susceptible
to red spider mites and spruce aphids, which will nest and wait while the trees are protected for the winter.
Repotting: In the spring before new growth begins or in the autumn, every two years for younger trees or more as
needed for older.
Pruning and Styling: Spruce have a slightly different growth habit when it comes to new growth than other
common bonsai conifers. New growth in spring, which looks like tiny green bristle brushes, elongate into tender
shoots covered in needles. Normally in other species, pinching out the bud would result in new buds forming at the
wound and along the shoot. Spruce however, do not. When cut, spruce shoots will not produce new buds. It will
last for a time, until the usefulness of the leaves is done, then die. New buds will form instead at the base of the
shoot and other intersections. In healthy trees, there may be back budding down to the trunk. During the growing
season wait until new shoots extend about an inch, or the new needles are extended at right angles from the shoot,
before pinching back to 1/4 inch to 1/2 and inch. New shoots will grow from the locations stated above. These new
shoots will be much shorter, and can be left uncut. Every three or four years, thin out the older, congested areas
and pruned shoots to allow light and air to penetrate, increasing interior backbudding further. Backbudding down
to the trunk is uncommon, so do not count on it.
Branches have a tendency to grow in whorls, all coming from the same spot, causing inverse taper if not dealt with
early. Take care to remove excess branches from those points. Do serious branch pruning in late autumn or winter,
when they will "bleed" less.
Wire in autumn or winter, to prevent dieback of branches. Spruce can be difficult to wire, as even after a long time
the branches will sometimes spring back to their original position or shape. Rewiring, often over three or more
seasons may be required. Wire on younger branches, as older branches become unworkably stiff.
Propagation: 2 inch hardwood cuttings in winter from previous years growth. Difficult to root. Sow seeds outside
in spring.
Styles and Forms: Well suited to deadwood styles. All other styles but broom.
Species and Cultivars: P. abies Norway Spruce. Medium to dark green needles. Upright habit. 'Little Gem' dwarf
with a dense, ball like habit. Tiny needles. Slow growing. 'Arcocona' has fascinating cones that change colours with
the seasons, slow growing. 'Nidiformis' Bird's Nest spruce. Neat, spreading mound habit. Can suffer mild dieback
in winter.
P. glauca 'Conica' dwarf Alberta spruce, cone growth habit, up to 12 feet in the landscape.
P. glehnii Sakhalin Spruce. Traditional spruce for Japanese cultivation and very difficult to find elsewhere due to
serious import on the Picea genus for reasons of plant health. Smaller habit than Yezo spruce, shorter needles and
smaller tree.
P. jezoensis (hondoenis) Yezo Spruce. Traditional spruce for Japanese cultivation and also very difficult to find
elsewhere. Grows up to 100ft tall in the landscape with needles up to 3/4 inch long.
P. mariana 'Nana' Dwarf variety.
P. omorika Dwarf Serbian Spruce. Conical form. Dark green foliage with a white band running along the underside
of the needles.
Other Information:
growing in cool, forested regions. Undemanding and easy to care for given
the correct care, Spruce make excellent bonsai specimens. Individual needle
foliage (unlike pines which grow in bundles), ranging from bright to
medium green, blue-green to golden, grow around each stem. Bark grows
scaly and ridged with age, lending a rough and handsome air. The roots
natural grow close to the surface in a widespreading habit, making good
nebari easy to achieve. The shallow roots also make them ideal for pot
culture, as well as rock and slab plantings. Spruce can grow hanging cones
when mature.
Hardiness: Zone 2 or 3 in landscape. Protect roots from deep freezes, as they are shallow rooted. Spruce need
periods of cold weather to survive, and will die is successive winters are above 68 F. Protect from drying winds.
Light: Full sun in landscape, in bonsai pots protect roots from over heating by providing partial shade, especially in
the midday heat. Foliage will reduce from too much lack of light in the growing season. Can tolerate deep shade in
the winter, but still need light (do not shelter in a garage with no windows for example).
Soil: Neutral to acidic, moist but well draining.
Watering: Can be quiet thirsty in the growing season, so check daily, more frequently if it is particularly hot a dry.
Forest species are slightly drought tolerant, but don't prefer it. Dwarf species are less drought tolerant and enjoy
slightly wetter roots.
Fertilizer: Balanced feed every two weeks from spring until later summer. Can use an acidic fertilizer once or twice
a month in place of regular fertilizer.
Pests and Diseases: Spruce gall aphids, mites, bagworms, sawflies. Needle cast, canker, rust. Especially susceptible
to red spider mites and spruce aphids, which will nest and wait while the trees are protected for the winter.
Repotting: In the spring before new growth begins or in the autumn, every two years for younger trees or more as
needed for older.
Pruning and Styling: Spruce have a slightly different growth habit when it comes to new growth than other
common bonsai conifers. New growth in spring, which looks like tiny green bristle brushes, elongate into tender
shoots covered in needles. Normally in other species, pinching out the bud would result in new buds forming at the
wound and along the shoot. Spruce however, do not. When cut, spruce shoots will not produce new buds. It will
last for a time, until the usefulness of the leaves is done, then die. New buds will form instead at the base of the
shoot and other intersections. In healthy trees, there may be back budding down to the trunk. During the growing
season wait until new shoots extend about an inch, or the new needles are extended at right angles from the shoot,
before pinching back to 1/4 inch to 1/2 and inch. New shoots will grow from the locations stated above. These new
shoots will be much shorter, and can be left uncut. Every three or four years, thin out the older, congested areas
and pruned shoots to allow light and air to penetrate, increasing interior backbudding further. Backbudding down
to the trunk is uncommon, so do not count on it.
Branches have a tendency to grow in whorls, all coming from the same spot, causing inverse taper if not dealt with
early. Take care to remove excess branches from those points. Do serious branch pruning in late autumn or winter,
when they will "bleed" less.
Wire in autumn or winter, to prevent dieback of branches. Spruce can be difficult to wire, as even after a long time
the branches will sometimes spring back to their original position or shape. Rewiring, often over three or more
seasons may be required. Wire on younger branches, as older branches become unworkably stiff.
Propagation: 2 inch hardwood cuttings in winter from previous years growth. Difficult to root. Sow seeds outside
in spring.
Styles and Forms: Well suited to deadwood styles. All other styles but broom.
Species and Cultivars: P. abies Norway Spruce. Medium to dark green needles. Upright habit. 'Little Gem' dwarf
with a dense, ball like habit. Tiny needles. Slow growing. 'Arcocona' has fascinating cones that change colours with
the seasons, slow growing. 'Nidiformis' Bird's Nest spruce. Neat, spreading mound habit. Can suffer mild dieback
in winter.
P. glauca 'Conica' dwarf Alberta spruce, cone growth habit, up to 12 feet in the landscape.
P. glehnii Sakhalin Spruce. Traditional spruce for Japanese cultivation and very difficult to find elsewhere due to
serious import on the Picea genus for reasons of plant health. Smaller habit than Yezo spruce, shorter needles and
smaller tree.
P. jezoensis (hondoenis) Yezo Spruce. Traditional spruce for Japanese cultivation and also very difficult to find
elsewhere. Grows up to 100ft tall in the landscape with needles up to 3/4 inch long.
P. mariana 'Nana' Dwarf variety.
P. omorika Dwarf Serbian Spruce. Conical form. Dark green foliage with a white band running along the underside
of the needles.
Other Information:
Spruce (Picea)
Dwarf Norwegian Spruce, 'Little Gem'