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One of the most popular subjects for bonsai, Japanese maples exude a sense of elegance and
grace. The five to seven lobed foliage comes in a variety of colours (though usually green)
through a myriad variety of cultivars, often exhibiting three different colours over the course
of spring, summer and autumn. Japanese maples are generally slow growing, but well worth
the time for the incredibly beautiful bonsai they produce.
From a horticultural standpoint, Japanese maple refers to the species Acer palmatum and
Acer japonicum and their cultivars. Some references also group all Asiatic maples (those
endemic to Central and Eastern Asia) in with this name, but for this guide, we will be
referring primarily to A. palmatum. The techniques herein can also be applied to the species
A. japonicum, and can be applied to many (thought not all) other maple species in bonsai
cultivation.
Hardiness: Zone 5 or 6 in landscape. Winter protection is necessary, as though it belongs outdoors, it cannot survive without
protection in areas where it generally dips below freezing for the winter. Root damage to Japanese maples occurs at 14F(-10C) in
the landscape (below this point, total root destruction can occur), while trees in the small pots of bonsai cultivation can be
damaged even easier. Keep in a frost-free shed or garage after leaf fall for protection.
Light: Dappled sun to light shade. The dappled light is important in the summer, to protect the delicate leaves from sun-scorch.
Some cultivars are more tolerant of strong sun than others, but almost all benefit from at least some shade on hot summer
afternoons. Red leafed varieties, while more prone to leaf scorch than green leafed varieties, tend to have less vibrant foliage
when grown in too much shade, and will actually revert to green from red if not given enough light. A balance must be found
between too little light (such that the red leaves change to green) and too much (where the leaf margins scorch). Also protect
from excessive wind.
Soil: Well draining, slight acidic. Some organic matter (conifer bark, chopped sphagnum moss- not peat moss), but not enough to
become waterlogged. Pure akadama can be used if careful attention is paid to watering and fertilizing. Chopped sphagnum moss
is a good choice as a soil additive, as it is slightly acidic.
Watering: Japanese maples require slightly acidic environments, so use rainwater instead of tap water if possible, as tap water
tends to more frequently be slightly alkaline. Keep soil moist at all times, as maples do not tolerate drought, but keep from being
waterlogged or boggy. Whether watering heavily or watering lightly (to encourage growth or to restrict growth respectively),
ensure a consistent amount of water. Uniformity of watering, rather than quantity, matters most to these trees. Water burning
the leaves during the heat of the day is a myth, and you don’t need to worry about it, but still consider watering before the heat
of the day. Not because you might burn the leaves, but so the tree has enough water to make it through without drying out.
Fertilizer: Feed every week to two weeks with a high nitrogen fertilizer as leaf buds open in spring. Every other week during
the spring and summer after leaves have hardened off with a diluted, well balanced fertilizer, easing up on either strength or
frequency during the hottest part of the summer, as growth slows. Switch to a nitrogen free formula in late summer/autumn,
tapering off before winter. Lower fertilization can result in shorter internodes on more developed, mature trees, while too much
fertilizer can result in leggy growth. Keep the age and maturity level of your bonsai in mind when deciding on fertilizer strength
and frequency. Do not fertilize right after repotting. Wait until you see new growth, and then start light, moving in to stronger
summer feeding.
Maples can occasionally be dosed with an acidic fertilizer (like that for rhododendrons) or alkaline fertilizer (like that for roses),
especially if there is yellowing of the leaves (chlorosis), as alkaline or overly acidic situations can lead to a binding of nutrients in
the soil. Test the pH of your soil if this is occurring, and apply as needed, but this is not necessary if the tree is happy and
healthy in other respects.
Some Japanese maples may ‘resent’ the use of ammonium sources of nitrogen in fertilizer. A fertilizer with a non-ammonium
source of nitrogen may be a consideration if you are noticing a problem or have overly acidic soil composition, though this is
more of a problem with Japanese maples in the landscape than in bonsai cultivation.
Keep in mind that variegated cultivars may lose their key characteristics if over fertilized. Atypical leaf shapes may revert to
normal leaf shapes, while distinct colours and patterns may fade. If you notice this occurring, reduce the amount of fertilizer
and/or the frequency with which you are feeding.
Pests and Diseases: Healthy Japanese maples are not prone to infection, but that doesn’t mean they shouldn’t be watched, as
infestations and infections, when they do occur, can rapidly spiral out of control. They can be particularly prone to aphids and
scale when stressed. Aphids can infest young shoots in spring, leading to distorted leaves. Spider mites, weevils, and bark
beetles (especially if the tree is already unhealthy) can also attack. Also watch for local caterpillars, as they can defoliate a tree
swiftly. Verticillium wilt can be fatal in maple bonsai. Watch for anthracnose, powdery mildew, and cankers. They can also be
prone to fungal infections from overwatering which will lead to root rot.
Leaf scorch is a common problem with Japanese Maples, though not a disease. It is caused when the leaves lose water faster than
they can take it up. While typically attributed to too much hot sun, it can also be caused by late/early frosts, drought (did you
water your bonsai today?), drying winds, and even a build up of minerals or salts in the soil, due to an imbalanced pH.
Repotting: Repot early in spring before the buds open. Every year or two for trees under ten years old. Two to three years for
more mature trees. Do not remove more than half of the root mass (unless it is rotted or damaged) from young trees during
repotting, and less than that for older, established trees. Japanese maples naturally have very shallow root systems and easily
take to shallow bonsai dishes, though care needs to be taken to never too radically prune back the roots due to impatience to
have the tree in the ‘perfect’ container.
Pruning and Styling: Pinch out the tips of new shoots when one or two pairs of leaves have formed completely to retain shape
or encourage ramification. In Japan, the centers of new shoots are removed with tweezers and a magnifying glass just as the
shoot is opening up for maximum internode reduction, though this should only be used on mature trees that are focusing on
ramification, rather than immature trees still focused on growth. Pruning in late spring to midsummer will lead to masses of new
shoots from the internodes. Prune out new, unwanted growth with long internodes. Heavy pruning or trunk chopping can be
done at almost any time of year, and there are several opinions on when it is best to prune heavy branches. Some say spring,
when the tree is growing the strongest and will respond best and heal quickly. Some say late summer to early fall, so the tree
still has time to heal before winter dormancy, but will not throw out as much new growth as it will in the spring, but this can
mean that what new growth there is may not have time to harden off before it gets cold. And some say after leaf fall in autumn
or in late winter when the tree is in dormancy, to reduce the amount of stress placed on the tree and because you can better see
the tree’s structure. There are equal disagreements about using wound sealant or not, as some claim it protects the tree while
others say that it only traps bacteria already present.
Maples will back bud reliably, throwing of shots from old and new wood alike. But keep in mind that they back bud primarily
from internodes. Cutting a branch back too far, back beyond the first node, can run the risk of losing the branch. When trunk
chopping, while they will frequently backbud from dormant buds, keep an eye out for visible nodes on the trunk below your
chop point to increase the tree’s chances. These will be clear bands in the bark on younger trees that still have immature bark. If
you have a choice between stock with clear nodes below the point where you want to chop, and none, choose the stock with the
nodal bands. On smaller bonsai especially, these nodes will mark where the branches will grow, and are very important in
future planning.
Keep in mind that many cultivars of Japanese maples are grafted onto root stock of a different, hardier cultivar or a standard A.
palmatum. Never trunk chop below the graft point, unless the specific cultivar is of no interest to you.
Wire: Wiring can be done almost any time of year, though early spring, before bud break is ideal, as the structure of the tree is
clear and visible. The tree is also getting ready to put on new growth, and the branches will set better. Watch carefully if wiring
this time of year, as due to the quicker growth, the wire can quickly damage the bark and branch. Be careful also of dislodging
leaf buds, as they are easily damaged at this point. Wiring after summer defoliation is another option, as is wiring after autumn
leaf drop. If wiring in autumn, provide additional protection as the branches will not heal until spring. Do not wire in winter, as
the branches become brittle and break easily. Even if not defoliating, wiring in midsummer is a good choice, as the growth will
have slowed slightly from the earlier part of the spring, but the branches will still have a chance to set. Wrap branches with
raffia to protect the delicate bark, and rewire in six months (or earlier if you notice the wire starting to bite).
Leaf Reduction: Defoliate healthy trees in early to midsummer to reduced leaf size and increased ramifications on healthy trees.
Full or partial defoliation can be used (though with partial, remove leaves randomly from all over the tree, rather than from
specific branches, to avoid confusing the tree), leaving the petioles (leaf stalks) on the branches. Avoid defoliating and repotting
in the same year, and do not defoliate two years in a row.
Jin/Shari: No. Though wood can be preserved with wood hardeners, it is generally not recommended as the wood rots easily.
Propagation: Seeds: Growing Japanese maples from seed can be frustrating. Germination rates vary, and even viable seeds can
take up to five years to germinate! So do not throw out your Japanese maple seed trays if they don’t germinate the first year.
Leave them out for several years, though the highest germination rates will occur in the first three or so years, with sporadic
germination following that. If you have purchased seeds, and they arrive dry however, other preparations should be done. Soak
seeds in warm water for 24-48 hours. Treat with fungicide and place in polyethylene bags filled with equal parts sharp sand and
peat. Store bags in the refrigerator (no warmer than 40F (5C) for at least 60 days, but no more than 120 days. Plant in seedbeds
or trays outside (sometime around March, though take local climate in to account, though light frosts are not known to damage
germinating seeds). Planting mediums usually contain peat and sand or perlite, percentages depending on how damp your local
climate is. A slow release, balanced, weak fertilizer can be mixed in with the planting medium. Plant seeds at a depth of about
twice the diameter of the seed.
Ripe seeds that have not been allowed to dry out can also follow the above method, though soaking in warm water is neither
needed, nor recommended. Sow ripe seeds as soon as they ripen outdoors, which will allow the winter for cold stratification.
Maple seeds are ripe when the wings are brown and have dried out, but the seed still retains its original colour and has not
dried out. Do not remove the wings, as it is not only a boat load of unnecessary work, but also causes the seeds to dry out more
as well as opens things for fungus and disease.
Keep in mind that many cultivars do not breed true to seed, and while you will get a Japanese Maple seedling, it may not match
the parent plant. Spontaneous mutation is more common with some forms of Japanese maple than others, so watch for
interesting flukes in your seed bed!
Cuttings: Softwood cuttings, 4-6 inches (10-15cm) long, in early to midsummer, just as new growth is beginning to harden off.
Many cultivars do not root easily and the failure rate can be extremely high on these. Remove all but the top pair of leaves.
Bottom heat has been shown to increase the rate of successful cuttings. Keep shaded.
Grafting: Grafting can be a long and complicated process, especially as some Japanese maple cultivars have very specific grafting
requirements. In general, grafting is one of the few ways to consistently propagate many cultivars, using standard A. palmatum
understock and the cultivar as scion. Watch for an indepth article about grafting and Japanese Maples.
Other: Aiylayering and ground layering are good options to preserve a particular cultivar, some time in mid to late spring as
new growth hardens off. Some cultivars are not as strong on their own root stock as they will be on grafted rootstock.
Styles and Forms: Suited to many forms, including: broom, informal upright, group plantings, raft, twin trunk, clump and
weeping. Cascade and semi-cascade are possible, and even beautiful, but can look contrived with this species with the exception
of some dissectum cultivars.
Cultivars: There are thousands of different cultivars. Too many to name here. Here are just a few, though by no means the only
ones suitable. Almost any cultivar can be used in bonsai, though some may be limited due to their leaf size or other factors to
certain sizes or forms.
‘Atropurpereum’ – Red maple variety with larger leaves. The name is often used by many nurseries to refer to any Japanese
maple with red leaves, and the name has become mostly meaningless. Also known as ‘Blood leaf’.
‘Beni Kawa’ – Green foliage, often tinged red with an upright habit. These are best known for their winter appeal as shoots are a
brilliant salmon red.
‘Butterfly’ – a small leafed dissectum (cutleaf) variety with a delicate upright habit. Variable shaped, the variegated foliage is
blue-green with white margins. Magenta colour in autumn. Seeds are particularly tiny.
‘Chishio’ – meaning ‘blood’ in Japanese, this cultivar is well known for its stunning crimson foliage in autumn. It also has bright
red spring foliage, turning in to a medium green in summer. A slow growing, hardy cultivar.
‘Deshojo’ – Spring foliage is bright orange-red, with light green foliage with reddish bronze edges taking over later, though the
spring colour does not hold as long as some other cultivars.
‘Kagiri nishiki’ – Variegated cultivar with deep bluish green with white margins with diffused rose or pink markings that fade
during the summer. Also known as ‘Roseo-marginatum’, though confusion occurs, as that name has also been applied to other
cultivars as well.
‘Kashima’ - Dwarf cultivar with tiny red edged leaves in spring, green in summer and yellow in autumn. Popular bonsai cultivar.
‘Katsura’ – Bright apricot-yellow foliage with a darker margin in the spring. Summer finds the leaves a bright golden green, with
autumn colours yellows and oranges of a deeper and more vibrant hue than the spring foliage. Naturally small leaves and
internodes, though not a dwarf cultivar.
‘Kiyohime’ - Emerald green, very small foliage, though slightly larger than other dwarf cultivars. Rarely puts up a central leader
in the landscape, preferring a branching shrublike habit.
‘Seigen’ - delicate foliage, deep coral pink foliage in spring, maturing to a mid-green with orange-red edges. Bright crimson in
autumn. Foliage very easily damaged by sun and wind, even compared to other Japanese maple cultivars.
‘Seiryu’ – upright dissectum (cutleaf) cultivar. Bright green summer foliage with occasional reddish tones in the margins and
yellow to golden autumn foliage. Slightly smaller leaves than most dissectum varieties.
Other Information: Display maples indoors for a few days at most when in leaf, or for an hour or two when dormant. Bringing
it inside for longer during dormancy risks confusing the tree and starting the spring awakening too soon.
grace. The five to seven lobed foliage comes in a variety of colours (though usually green)
through a myriad variety of cultivars, often exhibiting three different colours over the course
of spring, summer and autumn. Japanese maples are generally slow growing, but well worth
the time for the incredibly beautiful bonsai they produce.
From a horticultural standpoint, Japanese maple refers to the species Acer palmatum and
Acer japonicum and their cultivars. Some references also group all Asiatic maples (those
endemic to Central and Eastern Asia) in with this name, but for this guide, we will be
referring primarily to A. palmatum. The techniques herein can also be applied to the species
A. japonicum, and can be applied to many (thought not all) other maple species in bonsai
cultivation.
Hardiness: Zone 5 or 6 in landscape. Winter protection is necessary, as though it belongs outdoors, it cannot survive without
protection in areas where it generally dips below freezing for the winter. Root damage to Japanese maples occurs at 14F(-10C) in
the landscape (below this point, total root destruction can occur), while trees in the small pots of bonsai cultivation can be
damaged even easier. Keep in a frost-free shed or garage after leaf fall for protection.
Light: Dappled sun to light shade. The dappled light is important in the summer, to protect the delicate leaves from sun-scorch.
Some cultivars are more tolerant of strong sun than others, but almost all benefit from at least some shade on hot summer
afternoons. Red leafed varieties, while more prone to leaf scorch than green leafed varieties, tend to have less vibrant foliage
when grown in too much shade, and will actually revert to green from red if not given enough light. A balance must be found
between too little light (such that the red leaves change to green) and too much (where the leaf margins scorch). Also protect
from excessive wind.
Soil: Well draining, slight acidic. Some organic matter (conifer bark, chopped sphagnum moss- not peat moss), but not enough to
become waterlogged. Pure akadama can be used if careful attention is paid to watering and fertilizing. Chopped sphagnum moss
is a good choice as a soil additive, as it is slightly acidic.
Watering: Japanese maples require slightly acidic environments, so use rainwater instead of tap water if possible, as tap water
tends to more frequently be slightly alkaline. Keep soil moist at all times, as maples do not tolerate drought, but keep from being
waterlogged or boggy. Whether watering heavily or watering lightly (to encourage growth or to restrict growth respectively),
ensure a consistent amount of water. Uniformity of watering, rather than quantity, matters most to these trees. Water burning
the leaves during the heat of the day is a myth, and you don’t need to worry about it, but still consider watering before the heat
of the day. Not because you might burn the leaves, but so the tree has enough water to make it through without drying out.
Fertilizer: Feed every week to two weeks with a high nitrogen fertilizer as leaf buds open in spring. Every other week during
the spring and summer after leaves have hardened off with a diluted, well balanced fertilizer, easing up on either strength or
frequency during the hottest part of the summer, as growth slows. Switch to a nitrogen free formula in late summer/autumn,
tapering off before winter. Lower fertilization can result in shorter internodes on more developed, mature trees, while too much
fertilizer can result in leggy growth. Keep the age and maturity level of your bonsai in mind when deciding on fertilizer strength
and frequency. Do not fertilize right after repotting. Wait until you see new growth, and then start light, moving in to stronger
summer feeding.
Maples can occasionally be dosed with an acidic fertilizer (like that for rhododendrons) or alkaline fertilizer (like that for roses),
especially if there is yellowing of the leaves (chlorosis), as alkaline or overly acidic situations can lead to a binding of nutrients in
the soil. Test the pH of your soil if this is occurring, and apply as needed, but this is not necessary if the tree is happy and
healthy in other respects.
Some Japanese maples may ‘resent’ the use of ammonium sources of nitrogen in fertilizer. A fertilizer with a non-ammonium
source of nitrogen may be a consideration if you are noticing a problem or have overly acidic soil composition, though this is
more of a problem with Japanese maples in the landscape than in bonsai cultivation.
Keep in mind that variegated cultivars may lose their key characteristics if over fertilized. Atypical leaf shapes may revert to
normal leaf shapes, while distinct colours and patterns may fade. If you notice this occurring, reduce the amount of fertilizer
and/or the frequency with which you are feeding.
Pests and Diseases: Healthy Japanese maples are not prone to infection, but that doesn’t mean they shouldn’t be watched, as
infestations and infections, when they do occur, can rapidly spiral out of control. They can be particularly prone to aphids and
scale when stressed. Aphids can infest young shoots in spring, leading to distorted leaves. Spider mites, weevils, and bark
beetles (especially if the tree is already unhealthy) can also attack. Also watch for local caterpillars, as they can defoliate a tree
swiftly. Verticillium wilt can be fatal in maple bonsai. Watch for anthracnose, powdery mildew, and cankers. They can also be
prone to fungal infections from overwatering which will lead to root rot.
Leaf scorch is a common problem with Japanese Maples, though not a disease. It is caused when the leaves lose water faster than
they can take it up. While typically attributed to too much hot sun, it can also be caused by late/early frosts, drought (did you
water your bonsai today?), drying winds, and even a build up of minerals or salts in the soil, due to an imbalanced pH.
Repotting: Repot early in spring before the buds open. Every year or two for trees under ten years old. Two to three years for
more mature trees. Do not remove more than half of the root mass (unless it is rotted or damaged) from young trees during
repotting, and less than that for older, established trees. Japanese maples naturally have very shallow root systems and easily
take to shallow bonsai dishes, though care needs to be taken to never too radically prune back the roots due to impatience to
have the tree in the ‘perfect’ container.
Pruning and Styling: Pinch out the tips of new shoots when one or two pairs of leaves have formed completely to retain shape
or encourage ramification. In Japan, the centers of new shoots are removed with tweezers and a magnifying glass just as the
shoot is opening up for maximum internode reduction, though this should only be used on mature trees that are focusing on
ramification, rather than immature trees still focused on growth. Pruning in late spring to midsummer will lead to masses of new
shoots from the internodes. Prune out new, unwanted growth with long internodes. Heavy pruning or trunk chopping can be
done at almost any time of year, and there are several opinions on when it is best to prune heavy branches. Some say spring,
when the tree is growing the strongest and will respond best and heal quickly. Some say late summer to early fall, so the tree
still has time to heal before winter dormancy, but will not throw out as much new growth as it will in the spring, but this can
mean that what new growth there is may not have time to harden off before it gets cold. And some say after leaf fall in autumn
or in late winter when the tree is in dormancy, to reduce the amount of stress placed on the tree and because you can better see
the tree’s structure. There are equal disagreements about using wound sealant or not, as some claim it protects the tree while
others say that it only traps bacteria already present.
Maples will back bud reliably, throwing of shots from old and new wood alike. But keep in mind that they back bud primarily
from internodes. Cutting a branch back too far, back beyond the first node, can run the risk of losing the branch. When trunk
chopping, while they will frequently backbud from dormant buds, keep an eye out for visible nodes on the trunk below your
chop point to increase the tree’s chances. These will be clear bands in the bark on younger trees that still have immature bark. If
you have a choice between stock with clear nodes below the point where you want to chop, and none, choose the stock with the
nodal bands. On smaller bonsai especially, these nodes will mark where the branches will grow, and are very important in
future planning.
Keep in mind that many cultivars of Japanese maples are grafted onto root stock of a different, hardier cultivar or a standard A.
palmatum. Never trunk chop below the graft point, unless the specific cultivar is of no interest to you.
Wire: Wiring can be done almost any time of year, though early spring, before bud break is ideal, as the structure of the tree is
clear and visible. The tree is also getting ready to put on new growth, and the branches will set better. Watch carefully if wiring
this time of year, as due to the quicker growth, the wire can quickly damage the bark and branch. Be careful also of dislodging
leaf buds, as they are easily damaged at this point. Wiring after summer defoliation is another option, as is wiring after autumn
leaf drop. If wiring in autumn, provide additional protection as the branches will not heal until spring. Do not wire in winter, as
the branches become brittle and break easily. Even if not defoliating, wiring in midsummer is a good choice, as the growth will
have slowed slightly from the earlier part of the spring, but the branches will still have a chance to set. Wrap branches with
raffia to protect the delicate bark, and rewire in six months (or earlier if you notice the wire starting to bite).
Leaf Reduction: Defoliate healthy trees in early to midsummer to reduced leaf size and increased ramifications on healthy trees.
Full or partial defoliation can be used (though with partial, remove leaves randomly from all over the tree, rather than from
specific branches, to avoid confusing the tree), leaving the petioles (leaf stalks) on the branches. Avoid defoliating and repotting
in the same year, and do not defoliate two years in a row.
Jin/Shari: No. Though wood can be preserved with wood hardeners, it is generally not recommended as the wood rots easily.
Propagation: Seeds: Growing Japanese maples from seed can be frustrating. Germination rates vary, and even viable seeds can
take up to five years to germinate! So do not throw out your Japanese maple seed trays if they don’t germinate the first year.
Leave them out for several years, though the highest germination rates will occur in the first three or so years, with sporadic
germination following that. If you have purchased seeds, and they arrive dry however, other preparations should be done. Soak
seeds in warm water for 24-48 hours. Treat with fungicide and place in polyethylene bags filled with equal parts sharp sand and
peat. Store bags in the refrigerator (no warmer than 40F (5C) for at least 60 days, but no more than 120 days. Plant in seedbeds
or trays outside (sometime around March, though take local climate in to account, though light frosts are not known to damage
germinating seeds). Planting mediums usually contain peat and sand or perlite, percentages depending on how damp your local
climate is. A slow release, balanced, weak fertilizer can be mixed in with the planting medium. Plant seeds at a depth of about
twice the diameter of the seed.
Ripe seeds that have not been allowed to dry out can also follow the above method, though soaking in warm water is neither
needed, nor recommended. Sow ripe seeds as soon as they ripen outdoors, which will allow the winter for cold stratification.
Maple seeds are ripe when the wings are brown and have dried out, but the seed still retains its original colour and has not
dried out. Do not remove the wings, as it is not only a boat load of unnecessary work, but also causes the seeds to dry out more
as well as opens things for fungus and disease.
Keep in mind that many cultivars do not breed true to seed, and while you will get a Japanese Maple seedling, it may not match
the parent plant. Spontaneous mutation is more common with some forms of Japanese maple than others, so watch for
interesting flukes in your seed bed!
Cuttings: Softwood cuttings, 4-6 inches (10-15cm) long, in early to midsummer, just as new growth is beginning to harden off.
Many cultivars do not root easily and the failure rate can be extremely high on these. Remove all but the top pair of leaves.
Bottom heat has been shown to increase the rate of successful cuttings. Keep shaded.
Grafting: Grafting can be a long and complicated process, especially as some Japanese maple cultivars have very specific grafting
requirements. In general, grafting is one of the few ways to consistently propagate many cultivars, using standard A. palmatum
understock and the cultivar as scion. Watch for an indepth article about grafting and Japanese Maples.
Other: Aiylayering and ground layering are good options to preserve a particular cultivar, some time in mid to late spring as
new growth hardens off. Some cultivars are not as strong on their own root stock as they will be on grafted rootstock.
Styles and Forms: Suited to many forms, including: broom, informal upright, group plantings, raft, twin trunk, clump and
weeping. Cascade and semi-cascade are possible, and even beautiful, but can look contrived with this species with the exception
of some dissectum cultivars.
Cultivars: There are thousands of different cultivars. Too many to name here. Here are just a few, though by no means the only
ones suitable. Almost any cultivar can be used in bonsai, though some may be limited due to their leaf size or other factors to
certain sizes or forms.
‘Atropurpereum’ – Red maple variety with larger leaves. The name is often used by many nurseries to refer to any Japanese
maple with red leaves, and the name has become mostly meaningless. Also known as ‘Blood leaf’.
‘Beni Kawa’ – Green foliage, often tinged red with an upright habit. These are best known for their winter appeal as shoots are a
brilliant salmon red.
‘Butterfly’ – a small leafed dissectum (cutleaf) variety with a delicate upright habit. Variable shaped, the variegated foliage is
blue-green with white margins. Magenta colour in autumn. Seeds are particularly tiny.
‘Chishio’ – meaning ‘blood’ in Japanese, this cultivar is well known for its stunning crimson foliage in autumn. It also has bright
red spring foliage, turning in to a medium green in summer. A slow growing, hardy cultivar.
‘Deshojo’ – Spring foliage is bright orange-red, with light green foliage with reddish bronze edges taking over later, though the
spring colour does not hold as long as some other cultivars.
‘Kagiri nishiki’ – Variegated cultivar with deep bluish green with white margins with diffused rose or pink markings that fade
during the summer. Also known as ‘Roseo-marginatum’, though confusion occurs, as that name has also been applied to other
cultivars as well.
‘Kashima’ - Dwarf cultivar with tiny red edged leaves in spring, green in summer and yellow in autumn. Popular bonsai cultivar.
‘Katsura’ – Bright apricot-yellow foliage with a darker margin in the spring. Summer finds the leaves a bright golden green, with
autumn colours yellows and oranges of a deeper and more vibrant hue than the spring foliage. Naturally small leaves and
internodes, though not a dwarf cultivar.
‘Kiyohime’ - Emerald green, very small foliage, though slightly larger than other dwarf cultivars. Rarely puts up a central leader
in the landscape, preferring a branching shrublike habit.
‘Seigen’ - delicate foliage, deep coral pink foliage in spring, maturing to a mid-green with orange-red edges. Bright crimson in
autumn. Foliage very easily damaged by sun and wind, even compared to other Japanese maple cultivars.
‘Seiryu’ – upright dissectum (cutleaf) cultivar. Bright green summer foliage with occasional reddish tones in the margins and
yellow to golden autumn foliage. Slightly smaller leaves than most dissectum varieties.
Other Information: Display maples indoors for a few days at most when in leaf, or for an hour or two when dormant. Bringing
it inside for longer during dormancy risks confusing the tree and starting the spring awakening too soon.
Japanese Maple (Acer palmatum)
Japanese Maple- Tree from Golden Bonsai
Beni Kawa
unknown cultivar
Seiryu
Kagiri Nashiki
unknown cultivar
Atropurpureum