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Considered by many to be unsuitable for bonsai cultivation, Jade plants are succulents more closely related to
cactus than to any tree. A native of South Africa' semi-desert areas, it is recognized by its succulent green leaves
and chunky stem. In the landscape, they can grow up to six feet high. In spring or autumn, Jades will have white or
light pink star-shaped blooms if given sufficient light through the growing season, the leaves also taking on a
reddish tinge on the tips. Jade are well suited to periods of extreme heat, dry soil and glaring sun. They are very
forgiving of beginning bonsai growers, almost indestructible as long as they are not over watered, and are very
easily propagated.
Hardiness: Zone 8b. Can be grown indoors on a sunny window all year round. Can be moved outdoors when
temperatures are above 50 F. May experience some leaf drop with changes in location or seasonal lighting. Can
tolerate a light frost if the soil is not wet, but it would be better not to subject your tree to one.
Light: Full sun. Will tolerate partial shade in the hottest parts of summer, but it is not necessary. Indoors, they
should be as close to a natural light source as possible, as low light will result in over-large lead size and poor
growth.
Soil: Well draining with a neutral pH. High on inorganic matter, sandy content. 70-80% grit.
Watering: Water thoroughly, but allow the soil to dry out between waterings. Water even less frequently in winter
if growth slows. If in doubt, underwater rather than over water, as in their natural habitat, Jade handle periods of
drought well. Leaves will start to wrinkle as a sign they need water, and Jade do best when watered only at that
point. Leaf drop is a sign of over watering. But often a Jade will look perfectly healthy until it just falls over, the
base rotted out. Even then, the tree can be saved by cutting off the rotten portion of the trunk completely (yes, the
roots too), so no decaying matter remains. Then allow the wound to dry out (just leave it on the counter) for a few
days until the edges begin to curl inward as the tissue shrinks. Plant the trunk is a mixture of 20% organic matter,
80% grit, burying deep enough to hold the trunk upright. Treat like a cutting, keeping the soil *barely* moist until
new growth is well on its way. Crassula put out roots in dry conditions to seek out water, as opposed to other
species that will only root if water is available.
Fertilizer: Balanced fertilizer once a month during the growing season.
Pests and Diseases: Largely pest free. Susceptible to root rot if over watered. Occasionally aphids and scale.
Insecticides are not particularly effective on Jades, so remove the insects by hand or with a mild soap.
Repotting: Any time of year. Every one to two years for younger trees, three to five years for older trees. Avoid
root pruning as much as possible as they do not respond well and it can weaken the plant. Keep warm and wait one
to three weeks after repotting before watering again, to avoid root rot.
Pruning and Styling: Growth is predictable, leaves occurring in pairs and at right angles to the previous pair.
Dormant buds are visible at the base of each fleshy leaf, and will always produce a new shoot when a branch is
pruned back to that point. Prune by snipping or pinching just above a node/dormant bud for the new shoot. Hard
pruning will induce backbudding from visible internodes on older parts of the plant. Pinch out terminal growths to
keep shape, and to encourage back budding and ramifications. Prune any time the tree is actively growing. Jade
respond well to serious trunk pruning and reduction, putting out growth from the wound in as little as one to two
weeks. Never use sealant on wounds, as it will trap water and cause rot. Allow wounds on this plant to dry out
naturally.
Wiring is difficult, but not impossible on this plant. Do not water before wiring, as the branches will be more
malleable and less likely to snap. Branches will set in as little as three to four weeks. Take care, wiring loosely and
bending only a little at a time as branches break easily and the bark is easily damaged.
Propagation: Cuttings are exceedingly easy to take from Jades. Whether a branch or even a single leaf, let lay out
until partly shriveled, then stick into sand, or perlite.
Styles and Forms: Clump, twin trunk, multitrunk, curved trunks.
Species and Cultivars: C. arborescens commonly seen as bonsai. Grows up to 10 feet in the landscape.
C. ovata "Bronze Beauty" slow growing with copper tinged leaves.
C. ovata 'Sunset' gold edged leaves
C. sarcocaulis Grayish leaves, pink summer flowers. Will grow in light shade.
Other Information:
cactus than to any tree. A native of South Africa' semi-desert areas, it is recognized by its succulent green leaves
and chunky stem. In the landscape, they can grow up to six feet high. In spring or autumn, Jades will have white or
light pink star-shaped blooms if given sufficient light through the growing season, the leaves also taking on a
reddish tinge on the tips. Jade are well suited to periods of extreme heat, dry soil and glaring sun. They are very
forgiving of beginning bonsai growers, almost indestructible as long as they are not over watered, and are very
easily propagated.
Hardiness: Zone 8b. Can be grown indoors on a sunny window all year round. Can be moved outdoors when
temperatures are above 50 F. May experience some leaf drop with changes in location or seasonal lighting. Can
tolerate a light frost if the soil is not wet, but it would be better not to subject your tree to one.
Light: Full sun. Will tolerate partial shade in the hottest parts of summer, but it is not necessary. Indoors, they
should be as close to a natural light source as possible, as low light will result in over-large lead size and poor
growth.
Soil: Well draining with a neutral pH. High on inorganic matter, sandy content. 70-80% grit.
Watering: Water thoroughly, but allow the soil to dry out between waterings. Water even less frequently in winter
if growth slows. If in doubt, underwater rather than over water, as in their natural habitat, Jade handle periods of
drought well. Leaves will start to wrinkle as a sign they need water, and Jade do best when watered only at that
point. Leaf drop is a sign of over watering. But often a Jade will look perfectly healthy until it just falls over, the
base rotted out. Even then, the tree can be saved by cutting off the rotten portion of the trunk completely (yes, the
roots too), so no decaying matter remains. Then allow the wound to dry out (just leave it on the counter) for a few
days until the edges begin to curl inward as the tissue shrinks. Plant the trunk is a mixture of 20% organic matter,
80% grit, burying deep enough to hold the trunk upright. Treat like a cutting, keeping the soil *barely* moist until
new growth is well on its way. Crassula put out roots in dry conditions to seek out water, as opposed to other
species that will only root if water is available.
Fertilizer: Balanced fertilizer once a month during the growing season.
Pests and Diseases: Largely pest free. Susceptible to root rot if over watered. Occasionally aphids and scale.
Insecticides are not particularly effective on Jades, so remove the insects by hand or with a mild soap.
Repotting: Any time of year. Every one to two years for younger trees, three to five years for older trees. Avoid
root pruning as much as possible as they do not respond well and it can weaken the plant. Keep warm and wait one
to three weeks after repotting before watering again, to avoid root rot.
Pruning and Styling: Growth is predictable, leaves occurring in pairs and at right angles to the previous pair.
Dormant buds are visible at the base of each fleshy leaf, and will always produce a new shoot when a branch is
pruned back to that point. Prune by snipping or pinching just above a node/dormant bud for the new shoot. Hard
pruning will induce backbudding from visible internodes on older parts of the plant. Pinch out terminal growths to
keep shape, and to encourage back budding and ramifications. Prune any time the tree is actively growing. Jade
respond well to serious trunk pruning and reduction, putting out growth from the wound in as little as one to two
weeks. Never use sealant on wounds, as it will trap water and cause rot. Allow wounds on this plant to dry out
naturally.
Wiring is difficult, but not impossible on this plant. Do not water before wiring, as the branches will be more
malleable and less likely to snap. Branches will set in as little as three to four weeks. Take care, wiring loosely and
bending only a little at a time as branches break easily and the bark is easily damaged.
Propagation: Cuttings are exceedingly easy to take from Jades. Whether a branch or even a single leaf, let lay out
until partly shriveled, then stick into sand, or perlite.
Styles and Forms: Clump, twin trunk, multitrunk, curved trunks.
Species and Cultivars: C. arborescens commonly seen as bonsai. Grows up to 10 feet in the landscape.
C. ovata "Bronze Beauty" slow growing with copper tinged leaves.
C. ovata 'Sunset' gold edged leaves
C. sarcocaulis Grayish leaves, pink summer flowers. Will grow in light shade.
Other Information:
Jade Plant (Crassula)