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Abies (family Pinaceae) is a genus of 45-55 species. Native to Europe, Asia, North America, and
even northern partsof Africa, these towering conifers dominate mountainous regions around the
world. Ranging in height from 30-260 feet (10-80m) tall, these cold climate giants are beautiful in the
landscape or in a bonsai pot.
Fir trees have short, flat needle foliage in medium to dark green to blue-grey, with many types having
lighter, silver or white undersides, usually between a third of an inch to an inch and a half (1-3.5cm)
long. The bark plates and cracks as it matures, making older bonsai specimens particularly rugged
looking. Pyramidal in general habit, branches are horizontal, sweeping gently toward the ground on
lower areas of the tree. Firs largely resemble Spruces, with a few differences, one of the clearest being
that Abies have erect cones, while Spruce cones hang down.
Hardiness: Most species are very hardy, growing easily in zones 4-7 in bonsai cultivation. They can
survive much colder temperatures in the landscape (many to zone 3), however great care needs to be
taken for these colder zones when in bonsai pots. Abies can be subject to die back of new foliage due
to late frosts. Areas with cold, drying winds may also need additional protection. They require a
period of winter dormancy, and do not do well in areas that do not get temperatures below freezing
during the winter.
Light: Full sun to part shade. Especially in areas with hot, drying winds, midday protection from the sun during the summer can
be beneficial.
Soil: Any fast draining soil mix will do. Abies prefer slightly acidic environments.
Watering: Firs do not appreciate constantly wet feet, and appreciate slightly drier conditions. Water thoroughly each time, but
allow to almost dry between waterings. They tolerate slight underwatering more than they tolerate overwatering.
Fertilizer: When new growth appears in the spring, start feeding every three weeks with a gentle fertilizer (no more than
10-10-10), or apply your chosen slow release/cake fertilizers. Alternate a regular, all purpose fertilizer with a slightly acidic
fertilizer (like Hollytone) every other, to every third time. Taper off feedings in autumn, giving a dose or two of a nitrogen free
fertilizer at the end. A slow release, mild fertilizer or cakes can be applied lightly in midwinter.
Pests and Diseases: Generally not a problem, but some pests do attack Abies. Aphids (balsam fir aphids specifically, causing
distorted new growth), scale, spider mites, and bagworms. Needle and twig blight sometimes hit stressed trees causing red, dying
foliage. Rust and cankers can also affect stressed or poorly pruned (ragged pruning or unsterilized tools) trees. Some species of
Lepidoptera feed largely on Abies in the wild, but are only occasionally problems in bonsai cultivation.
Repotting: Especially with collected specimens, pot slightly larger than you think you will need, as Abies often take some time to
adapt to pot culture. Go slowly on moving to smaller pots, keeping the change from one pot to the next only slightly smaller than
the previous one. Repot every two to three years in the early spring when buds appear. These trees may be repotted in autumn,
but provide additional winter protection.
Pruning and Styling: New growth can be pinched back while it is still bright green and soft (extended at least an inch, and
pinched back by about half) to inducing back-budding, which will occur largely at the base of old needles further back on the
branch, rather than at the ends of the branches. Large branches will bleed sap when removed. A stub can be left and allowed to
dry out for a season, either for a jin, or to be cut back to the trunk the following year. This will help prevent sap leaking on to the
trunk (it's rather hard to clean up) and will allow the tree to reroute its own sap flow around those areas more slowly and
naturally, reducing the stress to the plant. Also by pruning major branches in autumn or winter, excessive bleeding can also be
avoided. Do not cut down below the lowest branch with living foliage, as this will kill the tree.
Wire in spring for maximum flexibility, or more carefully in autumn as branches can be brittle. It may take several years for a
branch to set, so removal and reapplying the wire may be necessary, especially on older branches. Younger branches are much
more flexible and quicker to set position.
Well suited to deadwood styles. Treat with lime sulphur to help preserve, or a wood hardener.
Propagation: Seeds - seed viability on collected seeds can be fairly low (20-50%!), and that number goes down dramatically as the
seeds age. They remain viable for about a year after maturation. Use cold stratification to increase germination, either by planting
outside in the autumn in your seed beds, or stratifying them indoors. Treat with fungicide and place in polyethylene bags filled
with equal parts sharp sand and peat. Store bags in the refrigerator (no warmer than 40F (5C) for at least 30 days, but no more
than 120 days. Plant in seedbeds or trays outside (sometime around March, though take local climate in to account, though light
frosts are not known to damage germinating seeds). Planting mediums usually contain peat and sand or perlite, percentages
depending on how damp your local climate is. A slow release, balanced, weak fertilizer can be mixed in with the planting medium.
Plant seeds at a depth of about twice the diameter of the seed. Seeds germinate in late spring, usually late May, June or early July.
Seedlings prefer partial shade to full sun for the first year or three.
Other methods of propagation include layering, cuttings and grafting.
Styles and Forms: Fir are fairly versatile, and can be trained in most forms.
Species and Cultivars: A. alba - European Silver Fir. European native that can grow over 150ft in the landscape. Dark green
needles. Grey/Silver bark. 'Compacta' is a dwarf form.
A. amabilis - Beautiful Fir, Pacific Fir. North American Native. Grows to 100 ft in the landscape, with dark green and silver needles
that are under 1 inch long. Peculiar for a fir in that in prefers slightly moist conditions, and can tolerate some shade. Does not
tolerate heat or drought, and is normally found at higher elevations. Zones 3-6.
A. balsamea - Balsam fir. Has several dwarf cultivars, including 'Globosa', 'Hudsonia', and 'Nana.' Can be short lived in cultivation.
Zones 3-8.
A. cephalonica - Greek Fir. Native to central and southern Greece, it can reach 100 ft in the landscape. Dark green, slightly curved
needles. Dwarf spreading form 'Meyers Dwarf'.
A. concolor - White Fir, Silver Fir, Colorado Fir. Can grow to 80 ft. in the landscape. Blueish green needles and grey bark. Native to
southwestern US, it has a higher tolerance for heat and drought.
A. firma - Japanese fir, Momi Fir. Dark green needles. Native to Japan. One of the most heat tolerant firs, but is susceptible to late
frost damage. Zones 6-9.
A. homolepis - Nikko fir. Dark green needles. Native to Japan. Tolerant of air pollution. Also more tolerant of heat, but still
recommended for zones 4-9.
A. koreana - Korean fir. Very small fir, even in the landscape usually growing no more than 40ft tall. Dark green needles, less than 1
inch long, with violet upright cones. New growth sensitive to late frosts.
A. koreana `Compact Dwarf' - Dwarf Korean fir. Dwarf variety with dark green needles, no cones. Propagation by grafting, as the
cultivar is sterile. Zones 5-7.
A. koreana 'Horstmann's Silberlocke' - Dwarf Korean fir. Compact form. Cones while still small.
A. lasiocarpa - Alpine fir. Grayish-green needles with purple cones. Native to western North America. Zones 4-7.
A. lasiocarpa arizonica - Cork fir. Silver-gray needles, with corky bark. 'Compacta' is a dwarf form, slow growing to 10ft. Zones 4-9.
A. nebrodensis - Nebrodi Silver fir. Dark green needles. Similar to A. alba, but denser needles, smaller size. Native to the Nebrodi
Mts. of Italy, it is almost extinct in the wild.
A. procera - Noble Fir. North American native. Tolerates moister conditions. Very small needles, under 1/2 inch long, grey-green to
silvery blue. Zones 4-9.
A. religiosa - Mexican Fir. Better for warmer climates. Not cold tolerant. Zones 8-10.
A. veitchii - Native to Japan. Grows to 60ft in the landscape. 1 inch needles. Variation 'Sikokiana' has even smaller needles. Zones
6-9.
Other Information:
even northern partsof Africa, these towering conifers dominate mountainous regions around the
world. Ranging in height from 30-260 feet (10-80m) tall, these cold climate giants are beautiful in the
landscape or in a bonsai pot.
Fir trees have short, flat needle foliage in medium to dark green to blue-grey, with many types having
lighter, silver or white undersides, usually between a third of an inch to an inch and a half (1-3.5cm)
long. The bark plates and cracks as it matures, making older bonsai specimens particularly rugged
looking. Pyramidal in general habit, branches are horizontal, sweeping gently toward the ground on
lower areas of the tree. Firs largely resemble Spruces, with a few differences, one of the clearest being
that Abies have erect cones, while Spruce cones hang down.
Hardiness: Most species are very hardy, growing easily in zones 4-7 in bonsai cultivation. They can
survive much colder temperatures in the landscape (many to zone 3), however great care needs to be
taken for these colder zones when in bonsai pots. Abies can be subject to die back of new foliage due
to late frosts. Areas with cold, drying winds may also need additional protection. They require a
period of winter dormancy, and do not do well in areas that do not get temperatures below freezing
during the winter.
Light: Full sun to part shade. Especially in areas with hot, drying winds, midday protection from the sun during the summer can
be beneficial.
Soil: Any fast draining soil mix will do. Abies prefer slightly acidic environments.
Watering: Firs do not appreciate constantly wet feet, and appreciate slightly drier conditions. Water thoroughly each time, but
allow to almost dry between waterings. They tolerate slight underwatering more than they tolerate overwatering.
Fertilizer: When new growth appears in the spring, start feeding every three weeks with a gentle fertilizer (no more than
10-10-10), or apply your chosen slow release/cake fertilizers. Alternate a regular, all purpose fertilizer with a slightly acidic
fertilizer (like Hollytone) every other, to every third time. Taper off feedings in autumn, giving a dose or two of a nitrogen free
fertilizer at the end. A slow release, mild fertilizer or cakes can be applied lightly in midwinter.
Pests and Diseases: Generally not a problem, but some pests do attack Abies. Aphids (balsam fir aphids specifically, causing
distorted new growth), scale, spider mites, and bagworms. Needle and twig blight sometimes hit stressed trees causing red, dying
foliage. Rust and cankers can also affect stressed or poorly pruned (ragged pruning or unsterilized tools) trees. Some species of
Lepidoptera feed largely on Abies in the wild, but are only occasionally problems in bonsai cultivation.
Repotting: Especially with collected specimens, pot slightly larger than you think you will need, as Abies often take some time to
adapt to pot culture. Go slowly on moving to smaller pots, keeping the change from one pot to the next only slightly smaller than
the previous one. Repot every two to three years in the early spring when buds appear. These trees may be repotted in autumn,
but provide additional winter protection.
Pruning and Styling: New growth can be pinched back while it is still bright green and soft (extended at least an inch, and
pinched back by about half) to inducing back-budding, which will occur largely at the base of old needles further back on the
branch, rather than at the ends of the branches. Large branches will bleed sap when removed. A stub can be left and allowed to
dry out for a season, either for a jin, or to be cut back to the trunk the following year. This will help prevent sap leaking on to the
trunk (it's rather hard to clean up) and will allow the tree to reroute its own sap flow around those areas more slowly and
naturally, reducing the stress to the plant. Also by pruning major branches in autumn or winter, excessive bleeding can also be
avoided. Do not cut down below the lowest branch with living foliage, as this will kill the tree.
Wire in spring for maximum flexibility, or more carefully in autumn as branches can be brittle. It may take several years for a
branch to set, so removal and reapplying the wire may be necessary, especially on older branches. Younger branches are much
more flexible and quicker to set position.
Well suited to deadwood styles. Treat with lime sulphur to help preserve, or a wood hardener.
Propagation: Seeds - seed viability on collected seeds can be fairly low (20-50%!), and that number goes down dramatically as the
seeds age. They remain viable for about a year after maturation. Use cold stratification to increase germination, either by planting
outside in the autumn in your seed beds, or stratifying them indoors. Treat with fungicide and place in polyethylene bags filled
with equal parts sharp sand and peat. Store bags in the refrigerator (no warmer than 40F (5C) for at least 30 days, but no more
than 120 days. Plant in seedbeds or trays outside (sometime around March, though take local climate in to account, though light
frosts are not known to damage germinating seeds). Planting mediums usually contain peat and sand or perlite, percentages
depending on how damp your local climate is. A slow release, balanced, weak fertilizer can be mixed in with the planting medium.
Plant seeds at a depth of about twice the diameter of the seed. Seeds germinate in late spring, usually late May, June or early July.
Seedlings prefer partial shade to full sun for the first year or three.
Other methods of propagation include layering, cuttings and grafting.
Styles and Forms: Fir are fairly versatile, and can be trained in most forms.
Species and Cultivars: A. alba - European Silver Fir. European native that can grow over 150ft in the landscape. Dark green
needles. Grey/Silver bark. 'Compacta' is a dwarf form.
A. amabilis - Beautiful Fir, Pacific Fir. North American Native. Grows to 100 ft in the landscape, with dark green and silver needles
that are under 1 inch long. Peculiar for a fir in that in prefers slightly moist conditions, and can tolerate some shade. Does not
tolerate heat or drought, and is normally found at higher elevations. Zones 3-6.
A. balsamea - Balsam fir. Has several dwarf cultivars, including 'Globosa', 'Hudsonia', and 'Nana.' Can be short lived in cultivation.
Zones 3-8.
A. cephalonica - Greek Fir. Native to central and southern Greece, it can reach 100 ft in the landscape. Dark green, slightly curved
needles. Dwarf spreading form 'Meyers Dwarf'.
A. concolor - White Fir, Silver Fir, Colorado Fir. Can grow to 80 ft. in the landscape. Blueish green needles and grey bark. Native to
southwestern US, it has a higher tolerance for heat and drought.
A. firma - Japanese fir, Momi Fir. Dark green needles. Native to Japan. One of the most heat tolerant firs, but is susceptible to late
frost damage. Zones 6-9.
A. homolepis - Nikko fir. Dark green needles. Native to Japan. Tolerant of air pollution. Also more tolerant of heat, but still
recommended for zones 4-9.
A. koreana - Korean fir. Very small fir, even in the landscape usually growing no more than 40ft tall. Dark green needles, less than 1
inch long, with violet upright cones. New growth sensitive to late frosts.
A. koreana `Compact Dwarf' - Dwarf Korean fir. Dwarf variety with dark green needles, no cones. Propagation by grafting, as the
cultivar is sterile. Zones 5-7.
A. koreana 'Horstmann's Silberlocke' - Dwarf Korean fir. Compact form. Cones while still small.
A. lasiocarpa - Alpine fir. Grayish-green needles with purple cones. Native to western North America. Zones 4-7.
A. lasiocarpa arizonica - Cork fir. Silver-gray needles, with corky bark. 'Compacta' is a dwarf form, slow growing to 10ft. Zones 4-9.
A. nebrodensis - Nebrodi Silver fir. Dark green needles. Similar to A. alba, but denser needles, smaller size. Native to the Nebrodi
Mts. of Italy, it is almost extinct in the wild.
A. procera - Noble Fir. North American native. Tolerates moister conditions. Very small needles, under 1/2 inch long, grey-green to
silvery blue. Zones 4-9.
A. religiosa - Mexican Fir. Better for warmer climates. Not cold tolerant. Zones 8-10.
A. veitchii - Native to Japan. Grows to 60ft in the landscape. 1 inch needles. Variation 'Sikokiana' has even smaller needles. Zones
6-9.
Other Information:
Fir (Abies)
