 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
 |
Chamaecyparis are evergreen conifers native to North America and Asia.
Texture of foliage varies with species, from fan-like, to thread shoots, to scale.
Typically dark green foliage, some cultivars come in golds, blue-green and
yellow greens.
Hardiness: Zone 4-5. Tolerates freezing temperatures well. Protect from drying
wind.
Light: Full sun. Inadequate light will cause inner and lower branches to die off.
Soil: Plant in a fast draining soil mix, as they are particularly prone to root rot.
These do well in pure akadama, but incorporate organic matter if you cannot be
sure to water the tree up to several times a day in the heat of summer.
Watering: Do not over water, but never allow the soil to dry out. Chamaecyparis
do not tolerate drought or dry roots, unlike other conifers. Will not always show signs of distress due to
underwatering. They can be dead for weeks, even months, before the foliage loses its green colour.
Fertilizer: Balanced feed, diluted every two weeks from early spring to autumn. One or two doses of a nitrogen
free fertilizer in mid to late autumn.
Pests and Diseases: Prone to root rot. Needle and twig blight, spruce mites, red spider mites and scale.
Repotting: Every two to three years for younger trees, four to five years for older trees. In early to mid spring as
growth starts.
Pruning and Styling: Pinch back new growth to shape tree through the growing season. Avoid pruning foliage
with scissors, as it will cause browning. Over thick foliage will cause browning and dieback within the inner areas
of the tree, which is irreplacable, so keep canopy foliage thin enough to let in light and air. Clean out downward
growing foliage and branches, or foliage growing at the base of branches. Chamaecyparis rarely backbud to old
wood, so what you remove is usually gone for good. Do not prune back to old wood if you wish to encourage
budding, as they will only but to new growth. Do not expect to regrow a new branching structure on existing trees.
Large branches that do need to be pruned can be done in late spring to midsummer, when the wounds heal quickly.
New growth is supple and wirable, though old growth can be brittle. Be careful to keep foliage with the bottom,
lighter and delicate side facing downward when wiring foliage pads, otherwise they will burn from sun exposure.
Foliage fans are connected to the branch in a rather precarious way, and can be easily dislodged, so wire with care.
Propagation: Airlayer in spring. Sow seeds outside in spring. Semi-ripe cuttings in late summer.
Styles and Forms: Most styles except broom. Well suited to literati, upright, slanted and windswept.
Species and Cultivars: C. obtusa - Hinoki Cypress. Slow growing. Popular cypress with a reputation of being
difficult to grow. Medium to dark green, overlapping, fan-like foliage, with tny scale-like leaves pressed close to
the shoot. Tips of the shoots curl slightly downward. Reddish-brown bark. C. obtusa "Nana Gracilis" is a dwarf
form, very slow growing with very dark green foliage. C. obtusa "Nana Aurea" is a dwarf cultivar with golden
leaves.
C. pisifera - Sawara False Cypress. Medium to dark green leaves with silvery patterns on the underside. Ruddy
brown bark. C. pisifera "Pulmosa Compressa" Dwarf Plume False Cypress with a more delicate, airy appearance.
C. nootkatensis - Nootka False Cypress. Weeping and non-weeping forms. Non-weeping forms still droop slightly.
Dark green, scaly mature foliage hang in shaggy sprays off branches. Silver grey, exfoliating bark on mature trees.
Other Information: Cypress, especially Hinoki cypress do not like being indoors at all, and should only be brought
in for a day at a time, even for display.
Texture of foliage varies with species, from fan-like, to thread shoots, to scale.
Typically dark green foliage, some cultivars come in golds, blue-green and
yellow greens.
Hardiness: Zone 4-5. Tolerates freezing temperatures well. Protect from drying
wind.
Light: Full sun. Inadequate light will cause inner and lower branches to die off.
Soil: Plant in a fast draining soil mix, as they are particularly prone to root rot.
These do well in pure akadama, but incorporate organic matter if you cannot be
sure to water the tree up to several times a day in the heat of summer.
Watering: Do not over water, but never allow the soil to dry out. Chamaecyparis
do not tolerate drought or dry roots, unlike other conifers. Will not always show signs of distress due to
underwatering. They can be dead for weeks, even months, before the foliage loses its green colour.
Fertilizer: Balanced feed, diluted every two weeks from early spring to autumn. One or two doses of a nitrogen
free fertilizer in mid to late autumn.
Pests and Diseases: Prone to root rot. Needle and twig blight, spruce mites, red spider mites and scale.
Repotting: Every two to three years for younger trees, four to five years for older trees. In early to mid spring as
growth starts.
Pruning and Styling: Pinch back new growth to shape tree through the growing season. Avoid pruning foliage
with scissors, as it will cause browning. Over thick foliage will cause browning and dieback within the inner areas
of the tree, which is irreplacable, so keep canopy foliage thin enough to let in light and air. Clean out downward
growing foliage and branches, or foliage growing at the base of branches. Chamaecyparis rarely backbud to old
wood, so what you remove is usually gone for good. Do not prune back to old wood if you wish to encourage
budding, as they will only but to new growth. Do not expect to regrow a new branching structure on existing trees.
Large branches that do need to be pruned can be done in late spring to midsummer, when the wounds heal quickly.
New growth is supple and wirable, though old growth can be brittle. Be careful to keep foliage with the bottom,
lighter and delicate side facing downward when wiring foliage pads, otherwise they will burn from sun exposure.
Foliage fans are connected to the branch in a rather precarious way, and can be easily dislodged, so wire with care.
Propagation: Airlayer in spring. Sow seeds outside in spring. Semi-ripe cuttings in late summer.
Styles and Forms: Most styles except broom. Well suited to literati, upright, slanted and windswept.
Species and Cultivars: C. obtusa - Hinoki Cypress. Slow growing. Popular cypress with a reputation of being
difficult to grow. Medium to dark green, overlapping, fan-like foliage, with tny scale-like leaves pressed close to
the shoot. Tips of the shoots curl slightly downward. Reddish-brown bark. C. obtusa "Nana Gracilis" is a dwarf
form, very slow growing with very dark green foliage. C. obtusa "Nana Aurea" is a dwarf cultivar with golden
leaves.
C. pisifera - Sawara False Cypress. Medium to dark green leaves with silvery patterns on the underside. Ruddy
brown bark. C. pisifera "Pulmosa Compressa" Dwarf Plume False Cypress with a more delicate, airy appearance.
C. nootkatensis - Nootka False Cypress. Weeping and non-weeping forms. Non-weeping forms still droop slightly.
Dark green, scaly mature foliage hang in shaggy sprays off branches. Silver grey, exfoliating bark on mature trees.
Other Information: Cypress, especially Hinoki cypress do not like being indoors at all, and should only be brought
in for a day at a time, even for display.
False Cypress (Chamaecyparis)
Hinoki Cypress.
Property of Golden Bonsai Nursery.
Property of Golden Bonsai Nursery.
Dwarf Hinoki Cypress, unknown cultivar
Styled by Marco Invernizzi
Styled by Marco Invernizzi
| “It is only when the cold season comes that we know the pine and cypress to be evergreens” -Chinese proverb |